Sections
  1. 1. Why every list you’ve read is wrong for you
  2. 2. What you actually want to see, and why it splits the map in two
  3. 3. Time is a cost, and it is not the same cost as money
  4. 4. Three ways to take a dive trip, and most people start at the third
  5. 5. Untouched, or easy to reach. Rarely both.
  6. 6. The four places I have actually dived, through those lenses
  7. 7. How to find your own candidates
  8. 8. What I am going on
  9. 9. Message me
  10. What’s changed

shek.terrak.ai · Diving

Choosing Where to Dive From India

1. Why every list you’ve read is wrong for you

Search for the best dive destinations in the world and you will get a fairly consistent answer: the Red Sea, the Maldives, Indonesia, the Galápagos, the Great Barrier Reef. It is not a bad list. It is just not a list written for you.

Every ranking of anything is written from somewhere, and dive rankings almost never say where. The people writing them are mostly in North America or Western Europe, and “accessible” quietly means accessible from there. Ask a diver in London about Indonesia and they will tell you it is a long way and a lot of money. Ask me about Mexico and I will tell you exactly the same thing about Socorro. Neither of us is wrong. We are just standing in different places.

Here is what standing in India actually looks like. Researched

Flight to BaliTimeDirect?
From Mumbai7h 35mYes, non-stop
From London17–19hNo non-stop service
From Los Angeles~21hNo non-stop service

You are roughly two and a half times closer than a Londoner and three times closer than someone in Los Angeles, and you are the only one of the three who can get on one aeroplane and get off it in Indonesia. That is not a rounding difference. It is the difference between a long weekend being conceivable and being absurd.

And what sits at the end of that seven-hour flight is not a consolation prize. The Coral Triangle (Indonesia, the Philippines, and their neighbours) holds the highest marine biodiversity on the planet. The best reef diving in the world is a shorter flight from Mumbai than a lot of Europe is.

Nobody writing from California can honestly call that accessible, so nobody writing from California ranks it as accessible. From here it simply is. Writing that down isn’t parochial; it is the honest version of what every other list is already doing without admitting it.

Two things I should be straight about before this gets overstated. Bali is the near edge of that region, not its centre. Raja Ampat means flying to Sorong, and that costs everybody a long day, me included. And Indonesia is not the whole story: the Philippines belongs in exactly the same argument. The advantage is real across the region. The seven-hour figure is not.

2. What you actually want to see, and why it splits the map in two

Before any of the geography, a question that decides more than it looks like it does: what are you hoping to be in the water with?

There are broadly two answers, and they are not the same places.

Pelagics are the big animals. Sharks, manta rays, whale sharks, big schooling fish. You see them in open water, often in current, usually in the blue rather than on the reef. Macro is the other direction entirely: nudibranchs, pygmy seahorses, things smaller than your thumb that you would swim straight past, and the sheer species count of a healthy reef.

A destination can be world-class at one and thoroughly ordinary at the other. Most lists blur this, which is how people end up somewhere excellent and mildly disappointed.

I know which one I am. The two trips I have loved most were the Maldives and Egypt, and both for the same reason: big animals. Being circled by six hammerheads at forty metres, watching mantas come through on a cleaning station. That is what I book for, and it colours everything I say about a place. You should know that’s a preference and not a fact.

But I would be giving you bad advice if I stopped there, because my own preference turned out to be wrong.

I went to the Similan Islands wanting pelagics, and for the first couple of days I was quietly disappointed. Everyone on that boat was obsessed with nudibranchs (sea slugs) and I did not understand it at all. Then, because everyone else was doing it, I started looking. It became a game: spot one before anybody else, work out what it was, point it out. I got completely hooked on the thing I had been dismissive of four days earlier.

So the advice isn’t “decide what you like and sort by it.” It is: have a preference, then go somewhere that isn’t it at least once. The cheapest way to find out what you actually enjoy underwater is to be somewhere that overrules you.

3. Time is a cost, and it is not the same cost as money

Every dive guide gives you a price. Almost none of them give you the number that actually decides your trip: how many days you spend getting there.

If you have twenty days of leave a year and you are spending some of it on things that aren’t diving, a seven-day trip is a serious allocation. Raja Ampat is not simply expensive. It is Mumbai or Delhi to Jakarta or Makassar, then a domestic hop to Sorong, then a boat. The Andamans, which are in India, eat a full day each way: a flight to Port Blair and then a ferry to Havelock. Two travel days out of seven is nearly a third of your trip gone before you are wet.

This cuts both ways. Oman, which barely registers on international lists, is three hours and twenty minutes from Delhi non-stop. That is not just cheap. It is a trip you can take without spending annual leave on aeroplanes, and it is the reason a place can be worth more from here than its reputation elsewhere suggests.

A destination that costs three days each way is not a cheap destination, whatever the package price says. Price the days as well as the money.

4. Three ways to take a dive trip, and most people start at the third

This is the distinction that reorganised this whole page, because the modes do not overlap and most destinations only support some of them.

ModeWhat it actually isWho it suits
LiveaboardYou live on the boat. Not especially comfortable, food decent rather than good, but the diving, and the sites it can reach at all, are unmatchedDivers travelling alone or with other divers. Very hard to justify to a non-diving partner
A dive trip on landA place, with diving as the point of being there. You sleep ashore and the town matters: food, people, somewhere to be on a no-dive dayMost people, most of the time
Diving on the sideA holiday that happens to contain a dive or two, fitted around everything else that is going onAnyone whose travelling companions don’t dive, which is most people

Every dive guide treats that third mode as a compromise. It isn’t, and I can prove it from my own logbook. My first dive was a single dive on a family holiday to Australia. That one dive is the entire reason I dive at all. Years later I dived the Maldives on a trip with my wife, who does not dive, and it was short and completely worth doing.

In fact my whole diving history runs up that ladder in order: on the side of a family holiday, then a trip built around a course, then boats where diving is all there is. I suspect that is the normal path and nobody describes it as one. Each rung is a step up in commitment and a step down in how many non-divers you can bring.

The test for the third mode is simple, and it is not about the diving at all: can you disappear for a morning and come back without it being a whole thing? A resort absorbs that easily. A tightly-scheduled sightseeing itinerary does not. That single question rules more destinations in and out than reef quality ever will, and it is the first thing I would settle about any place before I looked at its reef.

5. Untouched, or easy to reach. Rarely both.

Here is a pattern I did not notice until I had been to a few places, and it explains more of the dive world than any other single idea.

The reefs that are still extraordinary are still extraordinary largely because getting to them is hard. That is not a coincidence. Inaccessibility is doing the conservation. Somewhere a day’s travel and a boat transfer from the nearest airport does not get day-trippers, does not get anchor damage at scale, and does not get the slow grind of volume tourism. The difficulty is the reason it survived.

Which means the two things you most want from a destination, that it be pristine and that you can actually get to it, are in direct tension, and they always will be. The good ones cost more, in money and in days, and that is not a market failure. It is the reason they are still good. Ease of access is a slow-acting solvent. Every place that becomes easy becomes less of what made it worth reaching.

Most rankings hide this. They score destinations on beauty, put the remote ones at the top, and leave you to discover the flights and the cost on your own. This page tries to show the tension instead of resolving it, because the honest answer to “where should I go” depends entirely on which of those you are willing to trade, and that is your call, not mine.

6. The four places I have actually dived, through those lenses

I am not going to rank the world for you. I have dived four countries, and a table with thirteen rows in it would be claiming a completeness I cannot back. Indonesia alone has more distinct dive regions than that whole table did. What I can do is take the four places I know and run each of them through the five lenses above, honestly, so you can see how the lenses work on real trips.

The Maldives

Lived Where I certified, in December 2018, and where I went back with my wife in 2021.

What you see: big animals. Mantas on cleaning stations, reef sharks, whale sharks in season. This was one of the two trips I have loved most, and it was the pelagics that did it.

Time: the shortest of the four from India. Direct flights to Malé from several Indian cities, then a domestic hop or a speedboat. You can lose less than a day getting there.

Mode: all three. I did the course trip, and I did the diving-on-the-side version with a partner who does not dive. The resort infrastructure absorbs one person vanishing for a morning without anyone noticing, which is the whole test for that third mode.

The tension: the reachable end of it. The Maldives is easy to get to and built to receive you, and you can feel that in the water on the busier atolls. It is not untouched. It is very good, and it is close, and those two things are exactly why it is not pristine.

The Similan Islands, Thailand

Lived My first liveaboard, December 2024, arranged through my dive shop in Mumbai.

What you see: I went wanting pelagics and spent two days quietly disappointed. Then the boat’s obsession with nudibranchs got to me, and I came home hooked on macro. The water was green rather than blue, and the visibility was lower than Egypt’s. The turtle was the animal I remember.

Time: a direct flight to Bangkok, then Khao Lak. Not a long hop, but not a weekend either.

Mode: liveaboard, which is how I did it. Khao Lak on the mainland makes it a shore trip too, and it is a good place to learn.

The tension: the park is shut from mid-May to mid-October, every year, by rule rather than by weather. That closure is doing real conservation work, and it also means the trip is planned around the calendar rather than fitted into it. Middle of the tension, leaning towards protected.

The Red Sea, Egypt

Lived August 2025, on the Emperor Elite. The most professional operation I have dived with.

What you see: six hammerheads at forty metres, circling for twenty minutes. Blue water, good visibility, and the other of my two best trips. I went in August, which is the hot shoulder rather than peak; the better months are spring and autumn.

Time: further than the Maldives or Thailand, and it felt like it. Not the far side of the world, but not somewhere you go for a week without thinking about the days either.

Mode: liveaboard. There is shore diving from the resorts, but the sites I went for need a boat that stays out.

The tension: further along it than the first two. The Red Sea is busy at the resort end and much less so where a liveaboard takes you, which is the pattern §5 describes in one country.

The Great Barrier Reef, Australia

Lived July 2012. One dive, on a family holiday, at nineteen.

What you see: a shark, on my first ever descent. That dive is the reason I do this at all.

Time: the one place here that is far from India in the way the international lists assume everywhere is. It was a family trip that happened to have a dive in it, which is the only way I would have got there.

Mode: the third one, in its purest form. Diving on the side of someone else’s holiday.

The tension: I cannot say. One dive at nineteen is not enough to judge a reef by, and the reef has changed since. I include it because it is where the ladder in §4 starts, not because I can tell you what it is like now.

What those four have in common is the thing I would actually pass on. In every one of them the lens that decided whether the trip worked was not the reef. It was the mode, and the days, and whether the place could absorb the people I was with. The reef quality mattered once I was in the water. Everything else decided whether I got there.

7. How to find your own candidates

For places I have not been, I will not rank. But I can tell you the method I used to find the ones worth looking at, because it was better than reading reviews.

Look at what Indian dive shops actually sell. Researched A trip an operator runs every year, from here, and fills, is a trip that demonstrably works from here. Money is a harder signal than enthusiasm. Two Mumbai operators’ published outbound lists, when I checked them, covered the Maldives, Thailand, the Red Sea, Indonesia, the Philippines, Sri Lanka, Lakshadweep, the Andamans and Oman. Plenty of shops run their trips through WhatsApp and never publish a list at all, so treat that as a floor, not a survey.

Then lay that against what the big international agencies list as their most popular, and look at the gap. The places that appear on Indian lists and not on global ones are under-covered internationally for one reason only: they are inconvenient from the United States and Western Europe. Not worse. Inconvenient from there.

That method surfaced Oman, which I have not been to and now want to. Three hours from Delhi, whale sharks in season, and it barely appears on any list written elsewhere. I mention it not as a recommendation, since I cannot give one, but as proof that the method finds things a reviewer never would.

8. What I am going on

Four countries, about sixty dives. The five lenses in the first half are mine and I stand behind them. The four places in §6 are lived and labelled as such. The method in §7 is research and labelled as such, and I have deliberately not turned it into a table, because a table of places I have not dived would be borrowing a confidence I do not have.

An earlier version of this page did exactly that. It ranked thirteen destinations with star ratings I had assigned from reading. Once I started talking to more divers it became obvious how thin that was, and it came out. The frameworks survived the cut. The rankings did not, and they should not have been there.

The dive guide on this site is worth reading because I lived it. This page is worth reading if the lenses are useful and you can see where each claim comes from. After Raja Ampat in December there will be a fifth lived place here, and it will be the Coral Triangle one, which is where §1’s argument is meant to land.

9. Message me

If you are trying to work out where to go, or you have a trip half-planned and want a second opinion on it, just message me. I would much rather have that conversation than have you book something expensive off a table on a website, including mine.

And if something here is wrong, or out of date, or you have been somewhere on this list and found it different, tell me that too. This page gets corrected. That is the point of it.

Email: abhishek@terrak.ai LinkedIn: Abhishek Chaudhry


What’s changed

  • 18 September 2026. Cut the ranked table and retitled the page. It listed thirteen destinations with star ratings I had made up from research, and once I started talking to more divers it was obvious how thin that was. Indonesia alone has more dive regions than the whole table had rows. The five ways of thinking about a destination stay. The rankings are gone, replaced by the four places I have actually dived, each run through those lenses. The method for finding candidates stays as a method, without the table it used to produce.
  • 21 August 2026. First published.